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SCX10 Short Wheel Base Conversion kit (STA30502S)

SCX10 Short Wheel Base Conversion kit (STA30502S)

The following is install instruction for STA30502S Short WheelBase Chassis Conversion kit for the Axial SCX10.  Shown below is the chassis set with optional red anodized chassis rails (green anodized chassis rails also available separately).  To complete the installation you will also need three package of AX80005 turnbuckle ends, and three package of AX80018 ball joints.  You will also need a dremel to cut the center plastic driveshaft.


 

First Start by dissasembly the SCX10 and remove the black chassis frame rails

During this build we will also be installing some option parts from our SCX10 aluminum option parts line

Separate the hardware that comes with the kit into flat-head screws, button-head screws and long set-screws

You will need a total of 14 AX80005 turnbuckle ends and 14 AX80018 ball joints.  Snap the AX80018 ball joints into the AX80005 turnbuckle ends and install the set-screw into the turnbuckle ends.  Install two set-screw into the front chassis brace, rear "H" brace, and also to the Y-link as shown.  Whenever you are installing metal screw into a metal component, we recommand using a small drop of blue loc-tite.

Next locate the four 3x18mm CNC Machined aluminum threaded tubes and install them as shown below.  Use the included washer on the front chassis brace and install the 3x18mm aluminum tubes on top of it.  We are using our aluminum "H" chassis brace (STA80026H) for this build

Locate the six CNC aluminum 74mm suspension link, the two 55mm front upper link, and the "Y" link and install the turnbuckle ends as shown.  Again use a tiny drop of blue loc-tite on all metal to metal install.  And install a pair of the suspension link to the front of the skid plate and a pair to the rear of the skid plate.  These will be the lower suspension links.

 

For those that wish to use a 4-link front suspension.  You will assemble another set of AX80005 turnbuckle ends and AX80018 ball link to go on each end of the 55mm suspension link.  Secure them to the 4-link plate using M3x16mm button head screws and two M3 lock-nut.

 

Now locate the chassis rails and the center skid plate side plates.  Install the side plate using four flat head screws using a drop of loc-tite on each screw.  Then slide the skid plate into the slot of the chassis rail and screw on two button-head screw to secure it.  This "box-in" design keeps the skid plate securely mounted and provide a strong foundation for the chassis rails.  Note:  The curve end of the rail is to the front of the chassis, so make sure the center transmission is facing the correct direction (rear of the motor should be facing the front of the truck).


Locate the front upper link assembly and the side rail mount.  Use the kit side rail mount screw to install the side rail mount as it is also the screw to mount the upper link.  Secure the upper link with a M3 lock-nut on the other side of the screw.  Here we are using our CNC machined aluminum side rail mount (STA80041).  Do the same procedure and install a rear upper suspension link previously assembled.

Remove the motor from the center transmission as this will allow for easier installation of the front upper links. Now turn the chassis assembly around and install the other chassis rail and skid plate side plates as previously instructed. 

Locate another side rail mount for the front and its long button-head screw and install it on to the chassis rail.  Install the front upper link on to the screw and secure it with a M3 lock-nut that comes with the truck.  For the rear, do likewise with the remaining side rail mount and install the last suspension link and secure it with a m3 lock-nut.  Again, the side rail mount we are using is our aluminum option STA80041.

 After installing all the suspension links, reinstall the motor, remember to set the gear mesh correctly and reinstall the gear cover.

Now locate the following pieces:  Front Bumper, Front "U" brace, Front Shock Towers, Rear Bumper, Rear "H" Brace, Rear Shock Towers

For the Front Bumper, we are using our CNC Machined aluminum option STA80125F bumper
For the Rear Bumper, we are using our CNC Machined Aluminum option STA80125R bumper
For the "H" Brace, we are using our CNC Machined Aluminum option STA80026H chassis brace
For the Front Shock tower, we are using CNC Machined aluminum STA80025F shock towers
and finally for the rear shock tower, we are using CNC Machined aluminum STA80025R shock towers



Install the rear shock tower, rear bumper, and the rear chassis "H" brace on to the chassis rails.  Use a bit of blue loc-tite on the screws that goes into the "H" Brace and the bumper if you're using the aluminum option.  Note:  Use the flat-head and button-head screw included with this chassis set as the ones included with our option parts are meant for the stock chassis but would be too short on this option chassis.  When installing these parts, keep the screws loose at first about 2 turns from securing it all the way down, and make sure all screws are in place and tighten down all the screws a little bit each one at a time until all is tight.

Next install the receiver box onto the 3x18mm aluminum posts on the "H" brace using two flat-head screw.  Double side tape the ESC onto the flat portion of the "H" Brace.

Now install the front bumper to the chassis rail using the chassis included button head screw.  Install the front shock tower and the from "U" chassis brace in the position shown.  Again, keep the screws loose and tighten them down a little bit at a time like previously mentioned.

Next locate the battery plate and the plastic battery plate mount and the kit hardware for them.  Keep the two 3x8mm flat-head wood screws, but use two of the 3x10mm flat head screws that came with the chassis conversion kit.  Install the plastic battery plate mount to the two 3x18mm aluminum post on the front "U" brace.  

Remove the velcro straps from the aluminum battery tray and install them on our light weight graphite battery plate (STA30483).  Finally using the two kit wood screws and install the graphite battery plate on to the plastic battery plate mount.  The mount and plate assembly should rest over the transmission.  This setup also move the weight of the truck more forward to the front allowing the truck to have bettery crawling/trail capabilities.

The chassis portion of the Short Wheelbase conversion build is now complete.  

This next part of the short wheelbase build will require a dremel and a cutting disc on the dremel.  New builders/hobbyist should ask someone who is proficient  with the dremel to help with this step.  Be sure to have proper eye protection as well.

We will now take the center driveshaft, and mark out about 15mm at each end and dremel it off to accomodate the shorter wheelbase.

Be sure to the clean the outside and inside of the driveshaft of any debris from the cutting.  Do the same for the rear center driveshaft as well.

Next install all four shocks on to the front and rear shock tower.  Use the front holes to start and adjust accordingly.  The shorter wheelbase might also require slightly softer springs for some application.  

For instructions on the front axle option parts assembly, please click here

For instructions on aluminum shock body and faux reservoir build, please click here

Now install one end of the driveshaft on the center transmission and bring the front axle assembly to the chassis.  Install one side of lower suspension link and the shocks.  Next install the "Y" link to the front axle, this step have to be done now because the angle in which the front pumpkin will be tilted forward makes it not possible to install the front upper link assembly if both side of the lower suspension link and shocks are already installed.  So you install one side of lower link/ shock assembly to the axle, the front upper "Y" link to the axle, and then finally the remaining side of the lower link/shock assembly.

*** Please note that the front and rear pumpkin are tilt forward (Front) and backwards (rear) to alleviate the extreme angle for the center driveshaft.  Had the axle/pumpkin been in the original position it would cause a severe bind on the center drivetrain.***

For those that wish to install the 4-link front suspension.  Install the 4-link plate on to the Front Axle by first removing the servo and the original servo plate.  We also install our aluminum servo mounts (STA80072S) while we had the servo out. 

 Once the 4-link plate and upper link assembly is on the axle, we install the axle to the truck by connecting one side of lower link and bottom shock, then the shortened center driveshaft, then one side of the upper link to the chassis, the remaining side of lower link and bottom shock and finally the remaining side of the upper link to the chassis.

Repeat the same process with the rear axle.  Install the shorten center driveshaft and then start with installation of one side lower suspension link/shock assembly and then the upper links to the rear upper link mount, and finish with the remaining side of the lower suspension link/shock assembly.

For instruction on rear axle option parts build, please click here.

The main goal of this short wheelbase chassis conversion kit is to fit the highly detailed line of bodies from Tamiya or any body that falls in the 240-250mm wheelbase range.  The following are some of the choices from Tamiya:

Tamiya Jeep Wrangler (This is an ABS Plastic hard body)

Tamiya Unimog

Tamiya Ford Bronco

Other Tamiya Bodies:  LandFeeder (a generic old school truck body), Toyota Land Cruiser, and the upcomcing Toyota FJ Cruiser

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